We are proud to inaugurate our blog with an exclusive interview with Imane Ayissi, a haute couture designer whose journey is both inspiring and fascinating. Originally from Cameroon and now a leading figure in Parisian fashion, Imane shares with us his story, his inspirations, and his unique vision of contemporary fashion.
A Visionary bridging tradition and modernity
Through his creations, Imane Ayissi seamlessly blends traditional African craftsmanship with Parisian haute couture. His work highlights the richness of African cultures while exploring modern and avant-garde concepts.
An inspiring journey
Born into a family where art and sport were intertwined, Imane Ayissi developed a deep passion for elegance and creativity from an early age. From his beginnings as a dancer at the National Ballet of Cameroon to his career as a model for prestigious houses like Dior, Givenchy, and Lanvin, his journey exemplifies boldness and determination. In 2004, he founded his own fashion house, becoming the first sub-Saharan designer to showcase a collection during Paris Haute Couture Week in 2020.
The art of elevating african textiles
Imane Ayissi is renowned for his ability to incorporate traditional African textiles into his haute couture creations, such as the bark of the Obom tree, Ghanaian kente, and kapok fibers from Burkina Faso. His work, respectful of tradition yet rooted in modernity, breathes new life into ancestral materials while offering a fresh perspective on haute couture.
Questions and answers
1. Journey and inspiration
Imane, could you tell us about your journey and what led you to become an internationally renowned designer?
It’s been a long journey, but to summarize, I became interested in fashion from an early age. I started creating clothes in Cameroon, first for my entourage, then for a Cameroonian brand (Blaz Design), alongside my work as a dancer with the National Ballet of Cameroon. When I moved to Paris, I continued my career as a dancer and also became a model, which gave me access to the inner workings of major fashion houses. Very quickly, I felt the need to showcase my own creations and began making collections, which I initially sold to a small circle of friends and acquaintances. Gradually, I established my brand and eventually entered the official Haute Couture calendar.
What are the main sources of inspiration for your creations? Are there specific influences that you like to incorporate into your work?
Everything can be a source of inspiration: an image, a word, a trip, a meeting… but no matter the inspiration for a collection, it’s important to me to highlight elements of African cultures and craftsmanship.
What has been the biggest challenge in your career, and how did you overcome it?
The lack of external funding and the fact that I’ve had to self-finance my brand since the beginning. I haven’t fully overcome this issue yet.
What valuable advice did you receive at the start of your career that still guides you today?
I must say I didn’t really receive advice when I started out…
2. Celebrating your work
You are recognized for your iconic creations. In your opinion, what makes your pieces so unique and special?
It’s not up to me to say. Perhaps my personal way of blending Parisian haute couture traditions with African craftsmanship.
Could you tell us about a creation that holds particular personal significance for you?
The padded jersey “dolls” down jacket from my “Voodoo Mood” collection. It’s a collection that questioned the decline of traditional African religions and was shown in an old convent in the Vatican!
How do you think your work influences contemporary fashion?
It’s not for me to say whether my creations influence other designers or contemporary brands… but I’ve noticed that raffia is now a material used by many designers, which wasn’t the case in 2017 when I started using it… I just hope that my work helps increase the visibility of African designers and that they’re finally being taken seriously, which is also quite recent.
What aspects of your work would you like to see celebrated as part of this tribute?
Everything that sheds light on African cultures in a contemporary way.
3. Iconic creations
For seven days after the publication of this interview, one of your iconic creations will be highlighted on Instagram each day. Could you tell us more about these pieces and what makes them special to you?
I’d rather let your followers discover them and do their own research…
How would you describe the design process behind these emblematic pieces? Is there a particular story behind each one?
Each piece belongs to a specific collection, with a unique inspiration or story, but each one is a fragment of a larger story that speaks to the world today, Africa, women, and beauty…
Which creation has been the most successful with the public and why, in your opinion?
It depends if we’re talking about critical success or commercial success. I think what captures the attention of fashion insiders (stylists, celebrities, journalists…) are my evening creations made with raffia. My biggest commercial successes, however, are my daytime creations made from Faso Dan Fani or tie-dye from Cameroon.
Among all your creations, which one best represents your vision of fashion?
Maybe the Kenté coat, a way to bring this magnificent traditional and artisanal Ghanaian fabric into the lives of people today, and for everyone.
4. Vision and philosophy
What is your vision of fashion, and how do you see the industry evolving in the coming years?
I am committed to artisanal fashion, with great attention to materials and finishes—clothes made to last, that you can keep for a long time. Fashion with meaning. Unfortunately, I think this vision of fashion is growing stronger, but only in a niche market, while hyper fast fashion, which is destructive to the environment, continues to gain ground.
How do you incorporate sustainability and social responsibility into your work?
It’s very important for me to limit the environmental impact of the clothes I produce. There are so many factors to consider, but the first is the durability of raw materials and ensuring that they won’t poison the soil at the end of their life, unlike synthetic fibers. It’s not always easy, but I’d say that 95% of the materials I use are natural and, whenever possible, sustainably produced.
How do you think fashion can promote diversity and inclusion?
By allowing and providing opportunities for designers from all parts of the world to express themselves.
What role do you see technology playing in the future of fashion?
It already plays a major role in the marketing and communication of fashion. I hope its impact on design and creation will remain limited.
5. Advice and future plans
What advice would you give to young designers aspiring to follow in your footsteps in the fashion industry?
My advice is to study. Fashion has become an extremely complex industry, and you need to enter it well-informed and intellectually prepared.
What are your future projects? Can you give us a glimpse of what we can expect from you in the coming months or years?
I don’t like to talk about my projects until they are realized.
What skills or qualities do you consider essential for success in the fashion world today?
Curiosity and openness to others and the world, as well as an interest in the technical aspects of clothing and materials.
Are there any specific collaborations or projects you dream of realizing in the future?
Of course, but once again, I prefer not to talk about them until they come to fruition.
6. A tribute to your work
How do you feel about Beyond the Sky paying tribute to your exceptional work through this initiative?
I thank you and appreciate the tribute.
How do you think this tribute can help raise awareness of your work and artistic vision?
Maybe it will inform an audience for whom fashion is not their primary interest.
What are the most significant moments of your career that you would like to share with our audience?
My entry into the official Paris Haute Couture calendar and my first solo exhibition organized by SCAD FASH in Atlanta, “Imane Ayissi, From Africa to the World,” curated by Rafael Gomez.
How would you describe the impact of your work on young designers and creators who consider you a source of inspiration?
You’d have to ask them!
To conclude, if you could convey one message to the next generation of designers and to those who admire your work, what would it be?
Never forget that fashion is political.
And there’s more…
Starting tomorrow, follow our Instagram account @beyondtheskyfr for daily posts highlighting one of Imane Ayissi’s exceptional creations, along with the story behind each design. Don’t miss this exclusive series!
An exclusive interview with Imane Ayissi
We are proud to inaugurate our blog with an exclusive interview with Imane Ayissi, a haute couture designer whose journey is both inspiring and fascinating. Originally from Cameroon and now a leading figure in Parisian fashion, Imane shares with us his story, his inspirations, and his unique vision of contemporary fashion.
A Visionary bridging tradition and modernity
Through his creations, Imane Ayissi seamlessly blends traditional African craftsmanship with Parisian haute couture. His work highlights the richness of African cultures while exploring modern and avant-garde concepts.
An inspiring journey
Born into a family where art and sport were intertwined, Imane Ayissi developed a deep passion for elegance and creativity from an early age. From his beginnings as a dancer at the National Ballet of Cameroon to his career as a model for prestigious houses like Dior, Givenchy, and Lanvin, his journey exemplifies boldness and determination. In 2004, he founded his own fashion house, becoming the first sub-Saharan designer to showcase a collection during Paris Haute Couture Week in 2020.
The art of elevating african textiles
Imane Ayissi is renowned for his ability to incorporate traditional African textiles into his haute couture creations, such as the bark of the Obom tree, Ghanaian kente, and kapok fibers from Burkina Faso. His work, respectful of tradition yet rooted in modernity, breathes new life into ancestral materials while offering a fresh perspective on haute couture.
Questions and answers
1. Journey and inspiration
Imane, could you tell us about your journey and what led you to become an internationally renowned designer?
It’s been a long journey, but to summarize, I became interested in fashion from an early age. I started creating clothes in Cameroon, first for my entourage, then for a Cameroonian brand (Blaz Design), alongside my work as a dancer with the National Ballet of Cameroon. When I moved to Paris, I continued my career as a dancer and also became a model, which gave me access to the inner workings of major fashion houses. Very quickly, I felt the need to showcase my own creations and began making collections, which I initially sold to a small circle of friends and acquaintances. Gradually, I established my brand and eventually entered the official Haute Couture calendar.
What are the main sources of inspiration for your creations? Are there specific influences that you like to incorporate into your work?
Everything can be a source of inspiration: an image, a word, a trip, a meeting… but no matter the inspiration for a collection, it’s important to me to highlight elements of African cultures and craftsmanship.
What has been the biggest challenge in your career, and how did you overcome it?
The lack of external funding and the fact that I’ve had to self-finance my brand since the beginning. I haven’t fully overcome this issue yet.
What valuable advice did you receive at the start of your career that still guides you today?
I must say I didn’t really receive advice when I started out…
2. Celebrating your work
You are recognized for your iconic creations. In your opinion, what makes your pieces so unique and special?
It’s not up to me to say. Perhaps my personal way of blending Parisian haute couture traditions with African craftsmanship.
Could you tell us about a creation that holds particular personal significance for you?
The padded jersey “dolls” down jacket from my “Voodoo Mood” collection. It’s a collection that questioned the decline of traditional African religions and was shown in an old convent in the Vatican!
How do you think your work influences contemporary fashion?
It’s not for me to say whether my creations influence other designers or contemporary brands… but I’ve noticed that raffia is now a material used by many designers, which wasn’t the case in 2017 when I started using it… I just hope that my work helps increase the visibility of African designers and that they’re finally being taken seriously, which is also quite recent.
What aspects of your work would you like to see celebrated as part of this tribute?
Everything that sheds light on African cultures in a contemporary way.
3. Iconic creations
For seven days after the publication of this interview, one of your iconic creations will be highlighted on Instagram each day. Could you tell us more about these pieces and what makes them special to you?
I’d rather let your followers discover them and do their own research…
How would you describe the design process behind these emblematic pieces? Is there a particular story behind each one?
Each piece belongs to a specific collection, with a unique inspiration or story, but each one is a fragment of a larger story that speaks to the world today, Africa, women, and beauty…
Which creation has been the most successful with the public and why, in your opinion?
It depends if we’re talking about critical success or commercial success. I think what captures the attention of fashion insiders (stylists, celebrities, journalists…) are my evening creations made with raffia. My biggest commercial successes, however, are my daytime creations made from Faso Dan Fani or tie-dye from Cameroon.
Among all your creations, which one best represents your vision of fashion?
Maybe the Kenté coat, a way to bring this magnificent traditional and artisanal Ghanaian fabric into the lives of people today, and for everyone.
4. Vision and philosophy
What is your vision of fashion, and how do you see the industry evolving in the coming years?
I am committed to artisanal fashion, with great attention to materials and finishes—clothes made to last, that you can keep for a long time. Fashion with meaning. Unfortunately, I think this vision of fashion is growing stronger, but only in a niche market, while hyper fast fashion, which is destructive to the environment, continues to gain ground.
How do you incorporate sustainability and social responsibility into your work?
It’s very important for me to limit the environmental impact of the clothes I produce. There are so many factors to consider, but the first is the durability of raw materials and ensuring that they won’t poison the soil at the end of their life, unlike synthetic fibers. It’s not always easy, but I’d say that 95% of the materials I use are natural and, whenever possible, sustainably produced.
How do you think fashion can promote diversity and inclusion?
By allowing and providing opportunities for designers from all parts of the world to express themselves.
What role do you see technology playing in the future of fashion?
It already plays a major role in the marketing and communication of fashion. I hope its impact on design and creation will remain limited.
5. Advice and future plans
What advice would you give to young designers aspiring to follow in your footsteps in the fashion industry?
My advice is to study. Fashion has become an extremely complex industry, and you need to enter it well-informed and intellectually prepared.
What are your future projects? Can you give us a glimpse of what we can expect from you in the coming months or years?
I don’t like to talk about my projects until they are realized.
What skills or qualities do you consider essential for success in the fashion world today?
Curiosity and openness to others and the world, as well as an interest in the technical aspects of clothing and materials.
Are there any specific collaborations or projects you dream of realizing in the future?
Of course, but once again, I prefer not to talk about them until they come to fruition.
6. A tribute to your work
How do you feel about Beyond the Sky paying tribute to your exceptional work through this initiative?
I thank you and appreciate the tribute.
How do you think this tribute can help raise awareness of your work and artistic vision?
Maybe it will inform an audience for whom fashion is not their primary interest.
What are the most significant moments of your career that you would like to share with our audience?
My entry into the official Paris Haute Couture calendar and my first solo exhibition organized by SCAD FASH in Atlanta, “Imane Ayissi, From Africa to the World,” curated by Rafael Gomez.
How would you describe the impact of your work on young designers and creators who consider you a source of inspiration?
You’d have to ask them!
To conclude, if you could convey one message to the next generation of designers and to those who admire your work, what would it be?
Never forget that fashion is political.
And there’s more…
Starting tomorrow, follow our Instagram account @beyondtheskyfr for daily posts highlighting one of Imane Ayissi’s exceptional creations, along with the story behind each design. Don’t miss this exclusive series!
